Whiskey Cured Bacon

In May 2008, I published a blog entry about curing bacon with whiskey. Click here to go to that entry. That article was the culmination of more than a week of activity, documented on the Fidonet COOKING echo.

It started after a discussion of making bacon-infused booze. That inspired me to try making booze-infused bacon. A search of Google revealed that no one seemed to have tried it before (that was a bit of a surprise, actually.) Here's the message that started it off:

From:	DAVE SACERDOTE	Number:	87368
To:	MICHAEL LOO	Date:	5/13/2008 11:44 PM
Subject:	Suggest Something	Reference:
Read:	5/14/2008 4:17 PM	Private:	No
Conference:	COOKING	Attachment:	None

Anyway, the next bacon I make I want to use some kind of booze
cure.  I figure a few days in something nice like bourbon or
Kentucky sour mash, then smoke over chips made from retired
whiskey barrels.

So I'm open to suggestions.  Let's discuss.

Sweet:
Southern Comfort.  Gads, I hate that sticky-sweet swill, but it
might lend a good flavor to the bacon, the same way that honey does.
I have a full fifth I bought when I was in high school (never
opened) and a uncracked quart I bought last week at a tag sale
(no kidding.)

Amaretto.  The almondy flavor might be kind of pleasant.

Frangelico.  I'm not fond of hazlenuts but some people might like it.

Apple schnapps.  Is that going too far overboard?

Not Sweet:
Bourbon.  I think that this would be really good, especially if
I gave it an extra day or two in the liquor to really soak up the
flavor.

Kentucky Sour Mash:  Ditto to the bourbon, there isn't that much
difference.

Canadian:  This would likely to be pretty good as well.

Scotch:  For some reason, I can't reconcile the flavor of bacon and
scotch in my "mental tastebuds."

Rye:  Maybe.  I have less experience with rye whiskey than any other
booze.

---

The suggestions started coming in and led to a discussion about the various flavors of booze and how they might go with pork.

From:	RUTH HANSCHKA	Number:	87411
To:	DAVE SACERDOTE	Date:	5/14/2008 10:50 PM
Subject:	Suggest Something	Reference:
Read:	5/15/2008 5:40 AM	Private:	No
Conference:	COOKING	Attachment:	None

-> Anyway, the next bacon I make I want to use some kind of booze
-> cure. I figure a few days in something nice like bourbon or
-> Kentucky sour mash, then smoke over chips made from retired
-> whiskey barrels.
->
-> So I'm open to suggestions. Let's discuss.

Triple Sec? Oranges and bacon just belong together sometimes. I'm not
feeling rum somehow. I wonder what Kummel would do - caraway-smoked bacon
sounds good to me!

---

From:	MICHAEL LOO	Number:	87475
To:	DAVE SACERDOTE	Date:	5/15/2008 3:55 PM
Subject:	suggest something 314	Reference:	None
Read:	5/15/2008 5:23 PM	Private:	No
Conference:	COOKING	Attachment:	None
AddressBook:		View Mode:

DS> So I'm open to suggestions.  Let's discuss.

Okay. I'm against using sweet booze but would suggest perhaps
combining real Bourbon (or rum!) with say brown or maple sugar
to make a cure.

DS> Southern Comfort.

No! [shudder]

DS> I have a full fifth I bought when I was in high school (never
DS> opened) and a uncracked quart I bought last week at a tag sale
DS> (no kidding.)

eBay.

DS> Amaretto.  The almondy flavor might be kind of pleasant.
DS> Frangelico.  I'm not fond of hazlenuts but some people might like it.

Maybe, but there are probably foreign elements in those
sticky liqueurs.

DS> Apple schnapps.  Is that going too far overboard?

May be okay, but why not just fruitwood and a Bourbon-sugar
cure as above?

DS> Bourbon.  I think that this would be really good, especially if
DS> I gave it an extra day or two in the liquor to really soak up the
DS> flavor.

For sure.

DS> Kentucky Sour Mash:  Ditto to the bourbon, there isn't that much
DS> difference.

As I find sour mash (Jack Daniel's Tennessee notwithstanding)
not superior (mostly inferior) to regular Bourbon, I'd nix that.

DS> Canadian:  This would likely to be pretty good as well.

Probably.

DS> Scotch:  For some reason, I can't reconcile the flavor of bacon and
DS> scotch in my "mental tastebuds."

Nope. Agreed.

DS> Rye:  Maybe.  I have less experience with rye whiskey than any other
DS> booze.

Rye tastes too grassy.

As I said, I'd explore rum. Possibly sherry or Madeira. Anisette
might be a kick - I used to put it in my red-cooked pork when I
couldn't find star anise. What about infusing vodka with an herb
such as sage and using that?

---

From:	DAVE SACERDOTE	Number:	87477
To:	MICHAEL LOO	Date:	5/15/2008 5:57 PM
Subject:	suggest something 314	Reference:
Read:	5/16/2008 9:00 AM	Private:	No
Conference:	COOKING	Attachment:	None
AddressBook:		View Mode:

DS> Southern Comfort.

ML> No! [shudder]

I guess that would leave out Yukon Jack too, eh.  I thought of the
sweeter boozes because I thought I could skip on the sugar in the
cure and just go with the salt.

DS> I have a full fifth I bought when I was in high school (never
DS> opened) and a uncracked quart I bought last week at a tag sale
DS> (no kidding.)

ML> eBay.

No, it's on eBay's blacklist.  I'm sure someone will drink it
sometime.

The tagsale was cool - they had a big milk wire filled with bottles
of booze of varying stages of emptiness, but most all were very old
stuff (tax stamp era) and so were high proof and superior smoothness.
I bought the whole thing for ten bucks.


ML> Okay. I'm against using sweet booze but would suggest perhaps
ML> combining real Bourbon (or rum!) with say brown or maple sugar
ML> to make a cure.

I like that idea.  I think I'll stick with the more neutral brown
sugar and the bourbon, and then put it over whiskey barrel smoke.
The flavors will be complimentary.


ML> What about infusing vodka with an herb
ML> such as sage and using that?

I ruled out vodka because there are no intrinsic aromatics
that distinguish it.  Decent vodka has no flavor of its own.

---

From:	MICHAEL LOO	Number:	87601
To:	DAVE SACERDOTE	Date:	5/17/2008 12:52 AM
Subject:	suggest something 323	Reference:
Read:	5/17/2008 11:46 AM	Private:	No
Conference:	COOKING	Attachment:	None
AddressBook:		View Mode:

 DS> Southern Comfort.
ML> No! [shudder]
DS> I guess that would leave out Yukon Jack too, eh.  I thought of the
DS> sweeter boozes because I thought I could skip on the sugar in the
DS> cure and just go with the salt.

True, but why pay booze prices for sugar (and glycerin and other
thickeners too no doubt)?

ML> Okay. I'm against using sweet booze but would suggest perhaps
ML> combining real Bourbon (or rum!) with say brown or maple sugar
ML> to make a cure.
DS> I like that idea.  I think I'll stick with the more neutral brown
DS> sugar and the bourbon, and then put it over whiskey barrel smoke.
DS> The flavors will be complimentary.

I think this would succeed nicely.

DS> I ruled out vodka because there are no intrinsic aromatics
DS> that distinguish it.  Decent vodka has no flavor of its own.

Actually, I've discovered that what the pretentious-ass
conn-o-sewers say is right, and vodka does have some small amount
of flavor and individuality. It's true that the US Government
definition says that it is supposed to have no discernible taste,
aroma, or color, but in reality there's something there. Not
enough to justify wide disparities in price, of course. But why
not, if you're going to rely on it to bring flavors to your meat,
add some of your own? My current mind's nose thinks that a vodka
infused with thyme and, say, Santakas might be interesting both
on its own and in such a setting as your bacon cure.

---

From:	HAP NEWSOM	Number:	87478
To:	DAVE SACERDOTE	Date:	5/15/2008 6:03 PM
Subject:	RE: Suggest Something	Reference:	None
Read:	5/15/2008 8:52 PM	Private:	No
Conference:	COOKING	Attachment:	None
AddressBook:		View Mode:

HIya Dave!
->
-> Anyway, the next bacon I make I want to use some kind of booze
-> cure.  I figure a few days in something nice like bourbon or
-> Kentucky sour mash, then smoke over chips made from retired
-> whiskey barrels.
->
-> So I'm open to suggestions.  Let's discuss.
->
-> Sweet:
-> Southern Comfort.  Gads, I hate that sticky-sweet swill, but it
-> might lend a good flavor to the bacon, the same way that honey does.
-> I have a full fifth I bought when I was in high school (never
-> opened) and a uncracked quart I bought last week at a tag sale
-> (no kidding.)
->
-> Amaretto.  The almondy flavor might be kind of pleasant.
->
-> Frangelico.  I'm not fond of hazlenuts but some people might like it.
->
Hmmm, Perhaps Yukon Jack? It's about the same as
Southern Comfort though so you might just as well
avoid the expense.

-> Apple schnapps.  Is that going too far overboard?
->
I'd say so, but I don't like apple schnapps...I'd just as
soon use Jaegermeister (grin)!

-> Not Sweet:
-> Bourbon.  I think that this would be really good, especially if
-> I gave it an extra day or two in the liquor to really soak up the
-> flavor.
->
-> Kentucky Sour Mash:  Ditto to the bourbon, there isn't that much
-> difference.
->
-> Canadian:  This would likely to be pretty good as well.
->
-> Scotch:  For some reason, I can't reconcile the flavor of bacon and
-> scotch in my "mental tastebuds."
->
Many of the better scotches have a smokey peaty flavor that just
might go well with bacon. Perhaps a dark rum would work well?

The one I'd have doubts about the most would be Gin
Although a sweet vermouth might do well.
You could call it a bacontini (grin)

-> Rye:  Maybe.  I have less experience with rye whiskey than any other
-> booze.
->
(grin) There may be a good reason for that!
I have a friend who drinks Rye exclusively.
I asked him why, because he complains about
it often....his response was He know's he'll never
be a drunk...he can't stand to drink enough rye
to get hammered! (grin)
chat with you soon
hap 

---

From:	DAVE SACERDOTE	Number:	87484
To:	HAP NEWSOM	Date:	5/15/2008 9:04 PM
Subject:	RE: Suggest Something	Reference:
Read:	5/24/2008 11:14 PM	Private:	No
Conference:	COOKING	Attachment:	None
AddressBook:		View Mode:

HN> Hmmm, Perhaps Yukon Jack? It's about the same as
HN> Southern Comfort though so you might just as well
HN> avoid the expense.

I think I have a bottle of YJ around somewhere.  But I think
I've just about ruled out a sweet liquor like that.

HN> I don't like apple schnapps...I'd just as
HN> soon use Jaegermeister (grin)!

That's not a bad idea - the herbal notes in Jaegermeister might
be pretty good.

DS> Scotch:  For some reason, I can't reconcile the flavor of bacon and
DS> scotch in my "mental tastebuds."

HN> Many of the better scotches have a smokey peaty flavor that just
HN> might go well with bacon. Perhaps a dark rum would work well?

No, the Scotch just doesn't "taste" right.  Rum seems a decent idea
and you and Michael have both mentioned it; I may make two pieces
with an identical cure save that one will start with bourbon and
one with rum.

HN> The one I'd have doubts about the most would be Gin

I was thinking the juniper flavor would be a welcome addition
as long as it isn't too powerful.

DS> Rye:  Maybe.  I have less experience with rye whiskey
DS> than any other booze.

HN> (grin) There may be a good reason for that!
HN> I have a friend who drinks Rye exclusively.
HN> I asked him why, because he complains about
HN> it often....his response was He know's he'll never
HN> be a drunk...he can't stand to drink enough rye
HN> to get hammered! (grin)

LOL

---

From:	JIM WELLER	Number:	87618
To:	DAVE SACERDOTE	Date:	5/17/2008 12:32 AM
Subject:	Re: Suggest Something	Reference:
Read:	5/18/2008 12:24 PM	Private:	No
Conference:	COOKING	Attachment:	None
AddressBook:		View Mode:

 DS> Anyway, the next bacon I make I want to use some kind of booze
DS> cure.

Now that sounds more promising.

DS> So I'm open to suggestions.  Let's discuss.

I'd try a mix of Southern Comfort and Bourbon (or in my case Yukon
Jack and Rye.)

---

I had originally intended to discuss the flavorings for at least another few days with my associates on the Echo, but I stopped at the wholesale meat market a day after Jim's last message came in (I couldn't help myself; the store is right next door to the farmer's market where I went to buy plants for my garden.) I bought a whole pork belly that morning, and that afternoon posted the message that started documenting what became known as the Whiskey Cure:

From:	DAVE SACERDOTE	Number:	87686
To:	ALL	Date:	5/18/2008 1:35 PM
Subject:	Bacon Cures	Reference:	None
Read:	No	Private:	No
Conference:	COOKING	Attachment:	None
AddressBook:		View Mode:

I was going to wait a couple more weeks before going into this, but
fate has forced my hand once again. [g]

I was at the Farmer's Market yesterday, buying seedlings for the garden,
and the wholesale/retail meat market was open next door.  I wandered in
and got a few things, including a nice cured/smoked whole beef brisket
labeled at Beef Bacon (ready to slice and use for kosher BLTs hahaha)
and...

...A WHOLE PIG BELLAH.

I'm psyched because up to now I've only been able to find pig belly
in small cuts. Sadly, this one doesn't have any rib bones on it, but
still - it's the whole side! About 13 pounds of bacon-on-the-hoof!

So, I'm going to be chunking it off into, perhaps, six two-pound-ish
blocks and making more bacon.  They will be smallish squares, but the
point here is to find a new and delicious flavor.

Ingredients:
Bourbon
Canadian Whiskey
Herbal Vodka
Southern Comfort
Standard Bacon Brine (recipe previously posted)

Wood:
Whiskey barrel chips
Apple
Hickory

Bacon varieties:

1. Two days in a straight bourbon marinade, then three days
in Standard Bacon Brine with the bourbon dumped in, too.
Smoke over whiskey barrel chips

2. Ditto with Canadian whiskey.

3. Ditto with Southern Comfort, but the Standard Brine will
have the sugar cut in half due to the sweetness of the
fratboy-pigswill marinade.

4. Two days marinating in the herbal vodka, then three days
in Standard Bacon Brine with the vodka and some additional
herbs tossed in (a little rosemary, some thyme, and a
bay leaf or two.)  Smoke over apple chips.

5. Two days in Canadian whiskey, then three days in Standard
Bacon Brine with the sugar and one cup of water replaced
by one cup of maple syrup. Smoked over apple chips.

6. Standard brine for four days, smoked over hickory. (Control.)

I'll be documenting everything with photos.


---

From:	DAVE SACERDOTE	Number:	87817
To:	JIM WELLER	Date:	5/20/2008 1:42 PM
Subject:	Bacon Cures Update	Reference:
Read:	5/20/2008 9:18 PM	Private:	No
Conference:	COOKING	Attachment:	None
AddressBook:		View Mode:

So last night, I hauled this enormous pig belly out of the fridge and laid it out on my biggest cutting board, where it hung over the edges by an inch or two on all sides. Pretty impressive. I cut into thirds across the width, and then cut each third in two for six approximately two-pound sections. A couple of the sections were a little thin at the ends, but all of them look pretty good, and there will be little waste because I generally keep the rind on even through smoking and frying the bacon itself.

Chunks of bacon were placed in cryovac pouches, booze was poured in, as much air as possible was pressed out, and the pouches were sealed. Not vacuum-sealed, mind you, because the vacuum apparatus tried to suck out the booze and the first attempt made a mess, with bourbon filling up the spill tray, splashing off the floor, and soaking the legs of my jeans. I will tell you this: The smell of pigblood and bourbon mixed is pretty disgusting. I hope the bacon smells better than that. [g]

I couldn't go with the original plan and use vodka, because there were no ready-made herbal infusions in the liquor stores I visited and with the pork already waiting in the refrigerator I didn't have the time to make my own. I'll try it another time; for now, I'm using rum, which was another recommended liquor.

For the most part, I used decent but not expensive liquor. Middle- of-the-road quality - I see no reason to use the fanciest most pricey liquors simply to flavor bacon, but I'm not about to ruin the stuff by using the rotgut store brands either. The lineup:

Bag 1: Two chunks in Canadian whiskey (Black Velvet.) One will later be cured with brown sugar, the other with maple sugar.

Bag 2: One chunk in bourbon (Jim Beam.)

Bag 3: One chunk in Southern Comfort. After pouring the liquor into the bag and swishing it around, I noticed a citrusy, almost orange note I had never detected in Comfort before, and thought that this bacon might be more interesting than I had given credit for previously.

Bag 4: One chunk in Bacardi white rum. I considered using some Bundy for this one, but decided that the overproof stuff wouldn't really be appropriate. Although I like the burn and the somewhat raw taste of Bundy to drink, I wanted something a little smoother for the bacon.

That left one chunk refrigerated as is until tonight as a control. Tonight I'll be starting it in a standard brine without any other experimental flavors so we can have a baseline comparison.

---

From:	DAVE SACERDOTE	Number:	88333
To:	ALL	Date:	5/28/2008 10:07 PM
Subject:	Whiskey-Cured Bacon	Reference:	None
Read:	No	Private:	No
Conference:	COOKING	Attachment:	None
AddressBook:		View Mode:

Recently, I tried an experiment in which I cured 2-pound slabs of
bacon in various liquors before putting them in my standard curing
brine and smoking them.

Originally, I had intended to use different smoke for a couple of
the slabs, but I decided it would be a better and fairer comparison
if all of the bacon was smoked over the same chips.

A few hours ago, all the bacon came out of the smoker and was set
on racks to cool.  When the bacon cooled, I trimmed a strip off of
each slab and Maryanne, Lynn, and I just sampled each of them for
an official tasting.

I am very, very pleased with the results.

0 - No liquor, standard brine cure, made as a control.  It came
out just as delicious as it ever has.

1 - Canadian whiskey.  A very slight hint of caramel, but not
enough of a flavor difference from the control to justify the
added expense of the whiskey.

2 - Canadian whiskey and maple syrup.  The caramel notes in
the whiskey and the maple flavor complimented and accented one
another.  Very good.

3 - Rum.  This was absolutely stellar.  The rum flavor held up
beautifully to the cure and smoke, and the bacon is fantastic.
Definitely a method to use again; this one was one of our favorites.

4 - Bourbon.  Another excellent flavor, bourbon also held up
well to the cure and the smoke.  There was a rich, full bourbon
taste with vanilla and caramel accents.  Another favorite, and
another cure I'd happily use again.

5 - Southern Comfort.  I have to admit to being pleasantly
surprised with the results.  None of the faintly citrusy notes of
straight Southern Comfort survived the cure or the smoke, but there
was a noticeable overtone of whiskey and a very interesting toasted
cane sugar taste that reminded me of cotton candy.  I would make
this bacon cure again, especially since I have somehow acquired two
bottles of Southern Comfort and absolutely no intention ever to
drink that fratboy syrup.

One note about the whiskey-barrel chips I used for smoke:  Meh.
Not only were they nothing special, but from the looks and smell
of them, they've been generously adulterated with mesquite and
hickory.  Luckily, the results were still decent.

---

So there you have it: The sequence of messages above, along with the photographs I took throughout the actual curing and smoking process, eventually became my May 2008 post about Whiskey Cured Bacon.